Researchers report in a new study on the benefits of a novel technology (VitisenSCE), which induces the skin’s own hyaluronic acid (HA) production from a blend of botanical actives, while providing immediate benefits of hydration and texture correction from five different forms of HA, according to study author and San Antonio, Texas, dermatologist Vivian Bucay, M.D.
“The product induces expression of hyaluronic acid synthase, an enzyme responsible for synthesis of HA in skin, while suppressing expression of hyaluronidase, an enzyme responsible for degradation of HA. The net result is an increased deposition of HA in skin,” Dr. Bucay says.
This higher level of HA in skin does more than increase hydration, according to the dermatologist.
“The data shows an increase in markers of keratinocyte activity (involucrin, loricrin and filaggrin) and tight junctions leading to stronger barrier (claudin),” Dr. Bucay says. “The antioxidant components of the proprietary blend provide protection against UV-induced damage in the form of reduced sunburn cell formation.”
The product, SkinMedica's HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator (Allergan), was shown in preclinical studies, to induce expression of key epidermal differentiation and barrier markers as well as epidermal HA synthases. Its application decreased expression of hyaluronidases. And initial results occurred quickly. Within 15 minutes of application, HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator improved the appearance of fine lines/wrinkles and skin hydration.
Researchers report in the study’s abstract that those who continued using the topical for eight weeks experienced significant improvements in fine lines/wrinkles, tactile roughness and skin hydration
“These long-term effects were measured after washing the face to remove any residual product and are attributed to changes in skin condition, presumably due to increased HA deposition,” Dr. Bucay says.
Dr. Bucay's Recommendations
Dr. Bucay says she recommends HA5 Rejuvenating Hydrator, which was launched at the end of January 2016. She also recommends Teoxane RHA Serum (Teoxane Ceuticals, Geneva), which contains what Teoxane refers to as resilient hyaluronic acid and antioxidants, Dr. Bucay says.
“Keeping in mind that HA is biologically active and not just a space filling compound as was previously thought, I recommend topical HA into skincare regimens for all skin types — not just for those with dry skin,” Dr. Bucay says. “Of course, topical HA is also a great adjunct to other treatments, such as injectable fillers, laser photo rejuvenation and collagen induction therapy (microneedling).”
Dr. Bucay was an author but not an investigator on the study published in the Journal of Drugs in Dermatology (JDD). However, she is preparing to begin a study using this product as part of a skin regimen for people with photodamage.
These products will continue to evolve, according to the dermatologist.
“As we age, not only is there a decrease in the amount of HA but a decreased production of HA. We expect HA-based products to become ‘smart,’ by targeting the underlying causes of low HA, and rejuvenating the skin via its biological activity,” she says.
Disclosure: Dr. Bucay is a consultant for Allergan.
Narurkar VA, Fabi SG, Bucay VW, et al. Rejuvenating hydrator: Restoring epidermal hyaluronic acid homeostasis with instant benefits. J Drugs Dermatol. 2016 Jan 1;15(1):s24-37. Available at: http://www.ncbi.nlm.nih.gov/pubmed/?term=bucay+v+HA